·16d ago
from
The Problem With SPF Makeup (and How to Solve It) | Reviews by Wirecutter - The New York Times
Skincare-makeup hybrid products—from blemish treatments with color-correcting properties to bronzers infused with peptides—have surged in popularity, with many including SPF to promise both cosmetic benefits and sun protection. However, consumer testing site Wirecutter and leading dermatological experts caution against relying solely on SPF-containing makeup for adequate sun defense.
The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) echoes this warning. AAD President Dr. Susan Taylor noted in an email that while SPF-infused moisturizers and makeup offer some benefits, those spending time outdoors should use a separate, broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher, reapplying every two hours.
The core issue lies in the amount of SPF makeup needed to deliver its labeled protection. According to Michelle Wong, a chemist and author of The Science of Beauty, all sun-protective products require 2 milligrams of application per square centimeter of skin to meet their advertised SPF level. For the face, that translates to roughly a quarter teaspoon—or a nickel-sized amount—of product. But applying that much foundation or SPF makeup would result in a thick, heavy layer that is aesthetically unappealing for most users, as makeup is formulated to sit on the skin and build pigment with more product, unlike regular sunscreen which is designed to absorb seamlessly.
Wong, who demonstrated this effect in an Instagram video, clarified that SPF makeup is not inherently less effective than plain sunscreen; many contain the same active ingredients in similar proportions. Instead, the practicality of applying enough to get proper sun coverage is the barrier. The recommended strategy, therefore, is to first apply a full, adequate layer of regular sunscreen, let it set completely, then follow with makeup as usual.
The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) echoes this warning. AAD President Dr. Susan Taylor noted in an email that while SPF-infused moisturizers and makeup offer some benefits, those spending time outdoors should use a separate, broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher, reapplying every two hours.
The core issue lies in the amount of SPF makeup needed to deliver its labeled protection. According to Michelle Wong, a chemist and author of The Science of Beauty, all sun-protective products require 2 milligrams of application per square centimeter of skin to meet their advertised SPF level. For the face, that translates to roughly a quarter teaspoon—or a nickel-sized amount—of product. But applying that much foundation or SPF makeup would result in a thick, heavy layer that is aesthetically unappealing for most users, as makeup is formulated to sit on the skin and build pigment with more product, unlike regular sunscreen which is designed to absorb seamlessly.
Wong, who demonstrated this effect in an Instagram video, clarified that SPF makeup is not inherently less effective than plain sunscreen; many contain the same active ingredients in similar proportions. Instead, the practicality of applying enough to get proper sun coverage is the barrier. The recommended strategy, therefore, is to first apply a full, adequate layer of regular sunscreen, let it set completely, then follow with makeup as usual.