·5/13/2026
from









I eat breakfast every day
## 01 · The Mix
Flour, salt, baking powder.
That's all it takes to start.
---
## 02 · The Water
Pour the warm water in slowly.
Keep the chopsticks moving.
The dough comes together in its own time —
don't rush it.
---
## 03 · The Rest
Cover it with a damp cloth and walk away.
Half an hour at least.
The water beside it is just in case your hands dry out.
---
## 04 · The Stretch
Hold both ends and pull — gently.
The dough has its own give.
Work with it, not against it.
---
## 05 · The Stack
Two strips, stacked.
One press of the chopstick down the center.
That seam is what makes them split open in the oil.
---
## 06 · The Fry
The wok is hot by 4 or 5 in the morning.
White ones just went in. Yellow ones are halfway.
The dark ones are almost ready.
The ones on the rack are already done.
Someone has to stand here the whole time.
---
## 07 · The Float
When they rise to the surface, they're close.
The outside is set, the inside still soft.
Flip them. Let both sides color evenly.
---
## 08 · The Lift
One pair of chopsticks. One pull.
The oil runs off as it comes up.
Two or three hours from flour to this moment.
---
## 09 · The Breakfast
Soy milk. Youtiao. Pickled greens.
Fermented tofu. Tea egg.
Beijing breakfast, unchanged for decades.
Sit down. Eat. The day begins.
Flour, salt, baking powder.
That's all it takes to start.
---
## 02 · The Water
Pour the warm water in slowly.
Keep the chopsticks moving.
The dough comes together in its own time —
don't rush it.
---
## 03 · The Rest
Cover it with a damp cloth and walk away.
Half an hour at least.
The water beside it is just in case your hands dry out.
---
## 04 · The Stretch
Hold both ends and pull — gently.
The dough has its own give.
Work with it, not against it.
---
## 05 · The Stack
Two strips, stacked.
One press of the chopstick down the center.
That seam is what makes them split open in the oil.
---
## 06 · The Fry
The wok is hot by 4 or 5 in the morning.
White ones just went in. Yellow ones are halfway.
The dark ones are almost ready.
The ones on the rack are already done.
Someone has to stand here the whole time.
---
## 07 · The Float
When they rise to the surface, they're close.
The outside is set, the inside still soft.
Flip them. Let both sides color evenly.
---
## 08 · The Lift
One pair of chopsticks. One pull.
The oil runs off as it comes up.
Two or three hours from flour to this moment.
---
## 09 · The Breakfast
Soy milk. Youtiao. Pickled greens.
Fermented tofu. Tea egg.
Beijing breakfast, unchanged for decades.
Sit down. Eat. The day begins.